A Famous Artist's Garden in the South of France

When I set off for some summer sun on the French Riveria thoughts of visiting any garden, let alone a famous artist's garden, were far from my mind. That is until I stumbled upon Pierre-August Renoir's house perched high on a hillside in Cagnes-sur-Mer.

Renoir purchased "Dommaine des Collettes" in 1907 when he fell under the spell of it's Olea europaea (Olive) and Citrus sinensis (orange) trees and it was the inspiration for much of his later life's work. He bought the house in order to ensure the Olive Trees in the garden were protected and so, in many respects, was way ahead of his time in preservation and conservation thinking.

He painted and sculpted there for eleven years and as you wander through both house and gardens you experience a strong connection to the man himself. Travelling back in time to the living studio of an artistic genius, I felt in awe and very lucky to be part of that history, even if momentarily.

Renoir suffered badly with arthritis in his later years, and the warmth of the climate in this part of France helped to ease his pain. You can instantly see what attracted him to this garden - it has views to the Mediterranean, inland views to the mountains, the special light which is so important to artists and a sense of space - although several hectares in size it feels an intensely intimate place.

If you position yourself in just the right place you can frame a view with the olive trees in the garden and imagine that you are part of one of Renoir's stunning paintings. Many of his fellow artists and friends also painted in this garden - Zita Landy, Marcelle Neveu, Charles Raymond, Raymond Gaudet, Fernand Guery-Colas, Bert - the list goes on and on.

I've always been aware that a garden is one of the most sophisticated forms of art but nowhere did that fact resonate, as much as in this garden. You only need to take a walk through the Olive Grove and then meander through the rooms of the house, to see how the two are so complexly intertwined. There was almost too much to take in during one visit and, like most gardens I visit, I knew that I had to come back.

The heat is intense and the sun is very high in the sky but this is heaven to some plants such as Agapanthus or Lily of the Nile, which thrives here and its stunning purple flowers and broad green leaves contrast beautifully against the sun dried pink hued gravel paths.

Agapanthus is a tough survivor which can tolerate these very dry conditions and its fragile and thin green stems topped with blue / lilac drum stick shaped flowers are just stunning. It was easy to see inspiration for art work throughout the garden in plant colour and form.

In this part of the world the heat is intense, the sun very high in the sky and there are long periods with very little rain. Despite this environment some plants can thrive and it was interesting to see plants with strong, deep and eye catching colours - perfect subjects for an Artist and his friends.

Scattered throughout the meandering pathways was the eye catching and evergreen shrub Nerium oleander. This shrub is abundant in the Mediterranean and has been cultivated since ancient times. The beautiful white flower sits perfectly against its thick green leaves and leathery stems.

The garden contains many pink coloured Nerium oleander as well. These are well established specimens with a very vivid hue - perfect for bringing flowers to life by way of a painting. If I closed my eyes and cleared my mind it was easy to visualise this plant being the focus of an afternoons painting session for perhaps Renoir or one of his many friends

On one level simply a plant doing its own thing - adapting and coping with its own position and environment. But stop to think and perhaps it could be the catalyst for a world famous painting, captured for ever on canvas. My thoughts were provoked at many junctures in this garden.

Another stunning architectural plant in the garden is Dasylirion serratifolium. This is a very hardy plant which is native to Mexico and has striking yellow flowers with sandpaper like rough leaves. The flowers stretch up rigidly from the more delicate grass base and contrast beautifully with the surrounding trees and blue sky beyond.

I stumbled on Renoir's garden and so I hadn't pre-planned my visit. If I am honest I was not even aware of the gardens existence and in just a couple of hours, it was difficult to take everything in. Not only was the garden full of interest but the house itself contained many original paintings and so the whole experience was quite overwhelming as a taster and glimpse into the past.

For anyone wanting to find out more about Renoir's Garden a starting point would be the detailed book by Derek Fell. This book has been added to my own library wish list and I'm sure if I ever am lucky enough to return it will give the garden a whole new meaning to me.

The house tells it's own story and is well worth a visit just to see a multitude of original artworks. Many of these works are painted in the garden and surrounding area and others are of Renoir's family or friends. Some of note are "Promenade Sous-Bais, La Ferme des Collettes and Paysage aux Collettes.

In one of the rooms you can see Renoir's easel and chair. If you look closely you can see long handles on the back of the chair and, together with the large wheels, this gave the ability for Renoir to be carried around the garden to paint when he was no longer able to get around himself unaided. Although sad it shows the passion that he had for getting out into the garden, even in his later years, enabling him to continue to paint. Renoir still had passion and the eagerness to learn.

Renoir was also a sculptor and in spite of his frailty after moving to Les Collettes, he experimented with form. He was encouraged by his art dealer friend Ambroise Vollard. The most amazing sculpture of a Greco-Roman Venus stands in the garden and has been placed directly in front of the house.

This is art in a three dimensional form and not only does it provide a focal point in the garden it also links the art, the human form and gardening to one another. It's a stunning piece and very much food for thought. Even though time moves on in life and a garden as they each develop a sculpture such as this allows everything to stand still, for a moment in time, and is very magical.

Sometimes it's only as you are nearly ready to leave that you actually feel the true sense and feel of a garden. At the outset you have excitement and anticipation at what you may see. There are some expectations, as you may already have heard or read a little about the garden prior to your visit. Then there are some surprises as perhaps you see a combination of plants you had never considered or some aspect of the garden triggered an idea within you.

However, it's only as you prepare to leave that all the aspects of a garden come together in your mind. The plants, the design, the history, the people - all of these, and more, make the garden and leave it's mark on you.

As I prepared to leave Renoir's garden and wandered back through the ancient trees with their gnarled trunks and shade giving leaves, I really got a feel for Renoir and what he was about. I felt sad that the garden was now in some respects empty but pleased that the spirit lives on to encourage many future generations to appreciate, and engage with art, whatever its form.

The garden had affected and provoked thoughts within me and I am sure that next time I visit an Art Gallery containing a famous Renoir painting I will think very differently.

I made a mental note to look up David Fell's book and ensure that more Artist Gardens were added to my garden visit wish list.

If ever you find yourself in the South of France I would thoroughly recommend taking the time to pay this beautiful place and garden a visit.